Topos and maps for Rock Climbing in Sierra de Castril
Below are the topos and maps for rock climbing in two locations around Castril. On Pico Quesada there are two crags, Crag Doo and Pinnacle Sector. These are found near the road juction of Castril, Campo Camera and Pozo Alcon. Click here for Bouldering info and topo for Collados Boulders
The other area, Crag Lezar, is 5 km inside the Parque Natural, just below the impressive Barranco del Buitre.
Pico Quesada
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Crag Doo
Produced by www.sierracastril.com
Crag equipment sponsored by www.abdet.com
Crag Doo - A growing selection of routes in a beautiful setting. At the moment routes are mid grade but there is great potential for many more of a similar grade and harder.
The crag faces south west and picks up sun from mid morning to sunset.
A visit to this crag can be combined with a swim and some deep water soloing in Lake Bolera. |
Bruce Jardine FA Scoopy Doo F6a
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| 25 |
Descónchese directamente |
8m |
5+ |
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From foot of obvious small triangular butress, follow flake and crack a few m's then up right wall
FA B JArdine, J Jardine, C Jardine |
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| 24 |
Ruby Boo |
8m |
5 |
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Up wall left of the big crack
FA B Jardine, J Jardine
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| 23 |
En el Balance |
8m |
6a |
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Up steep wall. Balancy
FA B Jardine, J Jardine |
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| 22 |
Principo |
8m |
4+ |
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up obvious wide crack
FA B Jardine, J Jardine, C Jardine |
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| 21 |
Scoopy Doo *** |
9m |
6a |
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Climb the scoop and grove direct. A technical lesson in bridging. FA D Gerrish,S Gerrish, T Phillips, B Jardine |
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| 20 |
Cracka Doodoo ** |
10m |
6a+ |
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Follow the obvious crack to the top. Exit to belay, with or without style ! FA B Jardine, T Phillips, S gerrish, D Gerrish |
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| 19 |
Bloque Doo ** |
12m |
6a |
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Start from the shallow cave. Follow the awkward crack to the top. FA T Phillips |
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| 18 |
Buitre Doo *** |
12m |
6b |
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Start at the thin crack left of the shallow cave. Climb this and pull left into the scoop. Follow the steep line to the belay. Superb. FA T Phillips, B Jardine |
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| 17 |
Project |
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| 16 |
Project |
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| 15 |
Dedo Doo *** |
18m |
6b |
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Around the corner left is a wall with and overlap half way up. This route takes the line left of the overlap.
FA B JArdine, T Phillips |
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| 14 |
Gruñir *** |
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Classic chimney climbing. Easier for those brought up on gritstone classics. FA T Phillips, B Jardine |
20m |
5 or 6b |
Access - 20 mins drive from Cortijo Sierra Castril
Take the road from Castril towards Pozo Alcon. After 8Km take the left turn to Campo Camara. 1 km further on on a left bend take the track to the left. Park near the chain across the track.
On foot follow the track to a junction, strike diagonally uphill to the crag.
Facilities - Check out the local bars in Castril and Pozo Alcon Confrides, self catering accommodation is available in Castril- see www.sierracastril.com |
Tom Phillips on the FA of the superb Buitre Doo 6b |
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Pinnacle Sector
Produced by www.sierracastril.com
Crag equipment sponsored by www.abdet.com
Pinnacle Sector - 200 m further along the top of the crag is a col with a pinnacle a little higher up. Follow the path down past the pinnacle to the first route.
The crag faces south west and picks up sun from mid morning to sunset.
A visit to this crag can be combined with a swim and some deep water soloing in Lake Bolera. |
Bruce Jardine FA Escudo F5+
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| 13 |
Principiantes ruta |
7m |
3 |
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Climb the left edge of the leaning flake, step up on to the slab and up to a bolt belay
FA B Jardine |
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| 12 |
Surco pequeño* |
8m |
4+ |
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Up the grove to the left to belay
FA B Jardine, T Phillips, |
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| 11 |
Romper** |
9m |
5+ |
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Obvious crack on right of 10. Good value start
FA B Jardine, T Phillips |
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| 10 |
Trauma de TP *** |
11m |
6a |
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Start at the 2m flake. Climb this and up the wall and scoop on sneaky holds. FA B Jardine, Tristan
Lucazeau |
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| 9 |
Project |
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| 8 |
Coincidencia** |
14m |
6a+ |
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Start at left end of undercut at a low bolt. Follow groove crack through overlap
FA B Jardine, T Phillips |
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| 7 |
Escudo ** |
10m |
5+ |
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Start off the block, follow the obvious line up the slab and crack. Long reach. (hard for the short) FA T Phillips, B Jardine |
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| 6 |
Via Whiting* |
12m |
5+ |
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Starts 2m right. Follow the obvious grove, crux at the small overlap. FA B Jardine, P Whiting |
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Copo mano derecha*** |
15m |
5+ |
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Right hand flake line , follow the hollow sounding flake, hardish move left near top
FA B Jardine, T Phillips |
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Copo mano izquierda*** |
15m |
5+ |
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Left hand flake line . Strenous start, delicate middle. Great route. FA T Phillips, B Jardine |
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Abdet.com ** |
12m |
6a+ |
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10 m right is an obvious narrow hanging slab. Climb the groove below it to an awkward and difficult exit up the crack. Clip the lower off to the left. FA T Phillips, B Jardine |
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Copo y Bolsillo *** |
14m |
5+ |
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2m Right. The obvious curving flake crack. Exit right at top of the flake via a Grande bolsillo. A super climb. FA B Jardine, T Phillips |
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Rajadura grande |
8m |
HS |
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Obvious wide crack to the left of crag. Friends and rocks. FA B Jardine J Jardine |
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Bouldering at Las Almontares |
Tom Phillips on FA Abdet.com. F6a |
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Crag Lezar
Lezar Crag
Produced by www.sierracastril.com
Lezar Crag- Technical climbing on super rock.
South facing, hot in the summer .
Climbing here can be combined with a trip down Barranco del Buitre
Below the crag near the river is a group of boulders made of coral. They are full of sharp pockets and give a great variety of problems in the V0 to V2 grade.
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Route 1 *** |
20m |
6a |
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Super technical route up the slabby wall. Little pockets and hidden foot holds |
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Route 2 *** |
20m |
6b |
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Follow the line of bolts to a taxing finish. Not steep, but technical. Very good |
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Route 3 ** |
20m |
6c+ |
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Hard climbing up the blank wall. Doable |
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Route 4 *** |
18m |
5+/6a |
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A super climb that follows an edge up to a great finish |
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| 5 |
Route 5 * |
15m |
HVS 5a |
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Interesting climbing up to a bolt belay . Arranging protection difficult |
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Route 6 |
15m |
HVS 5a |
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Follow the obvious line to the belay chain. Bold |
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Access-15 mins drive from Cortijo Sierra Castril
Follow the signed track into the Parque Natural Sierra de Castril. 1km after crossing the first bridge and just past coral boulders take a sharp left up the hill, keeping right. Park at the crag
Facilities- Further into the park is a campsite with a bar and serves tapas and meals. |
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Dick Gerrish FA Cracka Doodoo F 5+/6a |
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