Rock Climbing Holidays in the Sierra de Castril Granada Spain


Rock Climbing in the Sierra de Castril Spain

The Sierra de Castril and the surrounding area has great potential to develop into an excellent rock climbing and boulering venue. As well as local crags, the area is also within striking distance of well developed climbing areas around Andalucia, Granada and Murcia.

Click here for maps and topos for climbing around Castril

Click here for Bouldering info and topo for Collados Boulders

Click here for information about climbing in the Granada, Murcia regions
Click here for a map of where we are
Below are maps and topos of the area.

Climbing is possible nearly all year, even on the mountain crags. However in deep winter when the sun is not out it can be cold. In summer, although the heat around midday can be fierce, climbing on North facing crags is very pleasant as the humidity is usually very low. It's also possible to climb morning and evening even on South facing crags. Midday can be spent at one of the fantastic local pools or you could even do one of the classic local canyon trips .

Rock climbing in the Sierra de castril Spain
Bruce Jardine FA Scoopy Doo F 6a

 

Rock Climbing in the Sierra de Castril Spain

Sharon Gerrish FA Porkybelly buttress F6a
   

Scroll down for more information about the venues and Topos

Rock climbing map spain map of climbing sierra de castril

 

Crag Doo

Produced by www.sierracastril.com

Crag equipment sponsored by www.abdet.com

Crag Doo - A growing selection of routes in a beautiful setting. At the moment routes are mid grade but there is great potential for many more of a similar grade and harder.

The crag faces south west and picks up sun from mid morning to sunset.

A visit to this crag can be combined with a swim and some deep water soloing in Lake Bolera.


Bruce Jardine FA Scoopy Doo F6a

26
Descónchese directamente
8m 5+
  From foot of obvious small triangular butress, follow flake and crack a few m's then up right wall
FA    B JArdine, J Jardine, C Jardine
   
25
Ruby Boo
8m 5
 

Up wall left of the big crack
FA    B Jardine, J Jardine

   
24
En el Balance
8m 6a
  Up steep wall. Balancy
FA    B Jardine, J Jardine
   
23
Principo
8m 4+
  up obvious wide crack
FA B Jardine, J Jardine, C Jardine
   
22
Scoopy Doo ***
9m 6a
  Climb the scoop and grove direct. A technical lesson in bridging. FA D Gerrish,S Gerrish, T Phillips, B Jardine    
21
Cracka Doodoo **
10m 6a+
  Follow the obvious crack to the top. Exit to belay, with or without style ! FA B Jardine, T Phillips, S gerrish, D Gerrish    
20
Bloque Doo **
12m 6a
  Start from the shallow cave. Follow the awkward crack to the top. FA     T Phillips    
19
Buitre Doo ***
12m 6b
  Start at the thin crack left of the shallow cave. Climb this and pull left into the scoop. Follow the steep line to the belay. Superb. FA       T Phillips, B Jardine    
18
Project
   
       
17
Project
   
       
16
Dedo Doo ***
18m 6b
  Around the corner left is a wall with and overlap half way up. This route takes the line left of the overlap.
FA        B JArdine, T Phillips
   
15
Gruñir ***
   
  Classic chimney climbing. Easier for those brought up on gritstone classics. FA     T Phillips, B Jardine 20m 5 or 6b

 

Access - 20 mins drive from Cortijo Sierra Castril

Take the road from Castril towards Pozo Alcon. After 8Km take the left turn to Campo Camara. 1 km further on on a left bend take the track to the left. Park near the chain across the track.

On foot follow the track to a junction, strike diagonally uphill to the crag.

 

Facilities - Check out the local bars in Castril and Pozo Alcon Confrides, self catering accommodation is available in Castril- see www.sierracastril.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tom Phillips on the FA of the superb Buitre Doo 6b

 

 

Pinnacle Sector

Produced by www.sierracastril.com

Crag equipment sponsored by www.abdet.com

Pinnacle Sector - 200 m further along the top of the crag is a col with a pinnacle a little higher up. Follow the path down past the pinnacle to the first route.

The crag faces south west and picks up sun from mid morning to sunset.

A visit to this crag can be combined with a swim and some deep water soloing in Lake Bolera.


Bruce Jardine FA Escudo F5+

topo climbing sierra de castril granada

14
Principiantes ruta
7m 3
  Climb the left edge of the leaning flake, step up on to the slab and up to a bolt belay
FA B Jardine
   
13
Surco pequeño*
8m 4+
  Up the grove to the left to belay
FA B Jardine, T Phillips,
   
12
Romper**
9m 5+
 

Obvious crack on right of 10. Good value start
FA B Jardine, T Phillips

   
11
Trauma de TP ***
11m 6a
  Start at the 2m flake. Climb this and up the wall and scoop on sneaky holds. FA  B Jardine, Tristan Lucazeau    
10
Project
   
       
9
Coincidencia**
14m 6a+
  Start at left end of undercut at a low bolt. Follow groove crack through overlap
FA    B Jardine, T Phillips
   
8
Escudo **
10m 5+
  Start off the block, follow the obvious line up the slab and crack. Long reach. (hard for the short) FA   T Phillips, B Jardine    
7
Via Whiting*
12m 5+
  Starts 2m right. Follow the obvious grove, crux at the small overlap. FA     B Jardine, P Whiting    
6
Copo mano derecha***
15m 5+
 

Right hand flake line , follow the hollow sounding flake, hardish move left near top
FA    B Jardine, T Phillips

   
5
Copo mano izquierda***
15m 6a
  Left hand flake line . Strenous start, delicate middle. Great route. FA   T Phillips, B Jardine    
4
Copo mano Directo***
  6a+
 

Start to the left of route 5 below insitu tat. Climb up steeply to join route 5 to finish. Very good
FA    T Phillips, B Jardine

15m  
3
Abdet.com **
12m 6a+
  10 m right is an obvious narrow hanging slab. Climb the groove below it to an awkward and difficult exit up the crack. Clip the lower off to the left. FA    T Phillips, B Jardine    
2
Copo y Bolsillo ***
14m 5+
 

2m Right. The obvious curving flake crack. Exit right at top of the flake via a Grande bolsillo. A super climb. FA    B Jardine,  T Phillips

   
1
Rajadura grande
8m HS
  Obvious wide crack to the left of crag. Friends and rocks. FA     B Jardine J Jardine    

 

 

Bouldering at Las Almontares

Tom Phillips on FA Abdet.com. F6a

 

map crag lezar sierr de castril

Lezar Crag

Produced by www.sierracastril.com

Lezar Crag- Technical climbing on super rock.

South facing, hot in the summer .

Climbing here can be combined with a trip down Barranco del Buitre

Below the crag near the river is a group of boulders made of coral. They are full of sharp pockets and give a great variety of problems in the V0 to V2 grade.

Topo Lezar Crag Spain

1 Route 1 *** 20m 6a
  Super technical route up the slabby wall. Little pockets and hidden foot holds    
2
Route 2 ***
20m 6b
  Follow the line of bolts to a taxing finish. Not steep, but technical. Very good    
3
Route 3 **
20m 6c+
  Hard climbing up the blank wall. Doable    
4
Route 4 ***
18m 5+/6a
  A super climb that follows an edge up to a great finish    
5
Route 5 *
15m HVS 5a
  Interesting climbing up to a bolt belay . Arranging protection difficult    
6
Route 6
15m HVS 5a
  Follow the obvious line to the belay chain. Bold    

 

Access-15 mins drive from Cortijo Sierra Castril

Follow the signed track into the Parque Natural Sierra de Castril. 1km after crossing the first bridge and just past coral boulders take a sharp left up the hill, keeping right. Park at the crag

Facilities- Further into the park is a campsite with a bar and serves tapas and meals.

 
Dick Gerrish FA Cracka Doodoo F 5+/6a

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