Rock Climbing Holidays in the Sierra de Castril Granada Spain

Rock Climbing in the Sierra de Castril Spain

The Sierra de Castril and the surrounding area has great potential to develop into an excellent rock climbing and boulering venue. As well as local crags, the area is also within striking distance of well developed climbing areas around Andalucia, Granada and Murcia.

Click here for maps and topos for climbing around Castril

Click here for Bouldering info and topo for Collados Boulders

Click here for information about climbing in the Granada, Murcia regions
Click here for a map of where we are
Below are maps and topos of the area.

Climbing is possible nearly all year, even on the mountain crags. However in deep winter when the sun is not out it can be cold. In summer, although the heat around midday can be fierce, climbing on North facing crags is very pleasant as the humidity is usually very low. It's also possible to climb morning and evening even on South facing crags. Midday can be spent at one of the fantastic local pools or you could even do one of the classic local canyon trips .

Rock climbing in the Sierra de castril Spain
Bruce Jardine FA Scoopy Doo F 6a


Rock Climbing in the Sierra de Castril Spain

Sharon Gerrish FA Porkybelly buttress F6a

Scroll down for more information about the venues and Topos

Rock climbing map spain map of climbing sierra de castril


Crag Doo

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Crag equipment sponsored by

Crag Doo - A growing selection of routes in a beautiful setting. At the moment routes are mid grade but there is great potential for many more of a similar grade and harder.

The crag faces south west and picks up sun from mid morning to sunset.

A visit to this crag can be combined with a swim and some deep water soloing in Lake Bolera.

Bruce Jardine FA Scoopy Doo F6a

Descónchese directamente
8m 5+
  From foot of obvious small triangular butress, follow flake and crack a few m's then up right wall
FA    B JArdine, J Jardine, C Jardine
Ruby Boo
8m 5

Up wall left of the big crack
FA    B Jardine, J Jardine

En el Balance
8m 6a
  Up steep wall. Balancy
FA    B Jardine, J Jardine
8m 4+
  up obvious wide crack
FA B Jardine, J Jardine, C Jardine
Scoopy Doo ***
9m 6a
  Climb the scoop and grove direct. A technical lesson in bridging. FA D Gerrish,S Gerrish, T Phillips, B Jardine    
Cracka Doodoo **
10m 6a+
  Follow the obvious crack to the top. Exit to belay, with or without style ! FA B Jardine, T Phillips, S gerrish, D Gerrish    
Bloque Doo **
12m 6a
  Start from the shallow cave. Follow the awkward crack to the top. FA     T Phillips    
Buitre Doo ***
12m 6b
  Start at the thin crack left of the shallow cave. Climb this and pull left into the scoop. Follow the steep line to the belay. Superb. FA       T Phillips, B Jardine    
Dedo Doo ***
18m 6b
  Around the corner left is a wall with and overlap half way up. This route takes the line left of the overlap.
FA        B JArdine, T Phillips
Gruñir ***
  Classic chimney climbing. Easier for those brought up on gritstone classics. FA     T Phillips, B Jardine 20m 5 or 6b


Access - 20 mins drive from Cortijo Sierra Castril

Take the road from Castril towards Pozo Alcon. After 8Km take the left turn to Campo Camara. 1 km further on on a left bend take the track to the left. Park near the chain across the track.

On foot follow the track to a junction, strike diagonally uphill to the crag.


Facilities - Check out the local bars in Castril and Pozo Alcon Confrides, self catering accommodation is available in Castril- see







Tom Phillips on the FA of the superb Buitre Doo 6b



Pinnacle Sector

Produced by

Crag equipment sponsored by

Pinnacle Sector - 200 m further along the top of the crag is a col with a pinnacle a little higher up. Follow the path down past the pinnacle to the first route.

The crag faces south west and picks up sun from mid morning to sunset.

A visit to this crag can be combined with a swim and some deep water soloing in Lake Bolera.

Bruce Jardine FA Escudo F5+

topo climbing sierra de castril granada

Principiantes ruta
7m 3
  Climb the left edge of the leaning flake, step up on to the slab and up to a bolt belay
FA B Jardine
Surco pequeño*
8m 4+
  Up the grove to the left to belay
FA B Jardine, T Phillips,
9m 5+

Obvious crack on right of 10. Good value start
FA B Jardine, T Phillips

Trauma de TP ***
11m 6a
  Start at the 2m flake. Climb this and up the wall and scoop on sneaky holds. FA  B Jardine, Tristan Lucazeau    
14m 6a+
  Start at left end of undercut at a low bolt. Follow groove crack through overlap
FA    B Jardine, T Phillips
Escudo **
10m 5+
  Start off the block, follow the obvious line up the slab and crack. Long reach. (hard for the short) FA   T Phillips, B Jardine    
Via Whiting*
12m 5+
  Starts 2m right. Follow the obvious grove, crux at the small overlap. FA     B Jardine, P Whiting    
Copo mano derecha***
15m 5+

Right hand flake line , follow the hollow sounding flake, hardish move left near top
FA    B Jardine, T Phillips

Copo mano izquierda***
15m 6a
  Left hand flake line . Strenous start, delicate middle. Great route. FA   T Phillips, B Jardine    
Copo mano Directo***

Start to the left of route 5 below insitu tat. Climb up steeply to join route 5 to finish. Very good
FA    T Phillips, B Jardine

3 **
12m 6a+
  10 m right is an obvious narrow hanging slab. Climb the groove below it to an awkward and difficult exit up the crack. Clip the lower off to the left. FA    T Phillips, B Jardine    
Copo y Bolsillo ***
14m 5+

2m Right. The obvious curving flake crack. Exit right at top of the flake via a Grande bolsillo. A super climb. FA    B Jardine,  T Phillips

Rajadura grande
8m HS
  Obvious wide crack to the left of crag. Friends and rocks. FA     B Jardine J Jardine    



Bouldering at Las Almontares

Tom Phillips on FA F6a


map crag lezar sierr de castril

Lezar Crag

Produced by

Lezar Crag- Technical climbing on super rock.

South facing, hot in the summer .

Climbing here can be combined with a trip down Barranco del Buitre

Below the crag near the river is a group of boulders made of coral. They are full of sharp pockets and give a great variety of problems in the V0 to V2 grade.

Topo Lezar Crag Spain

1 Route 1 *** 20m 6a
  Super technical route up the slabby wall. Little pockets and hidden foot holds    
Route 2 ***
20m 6b
  Follow the line of bolts to a taxing finish. Not steep, but technical. Very good    
Route 3 **
20m 6c+
  Hard climbing up the blank wall. Doable    
Route 4 ***
18m 5+/6a
  A super climb that follows an edge up to a great finish    
Route 5 *
15m HVS 5a
  Interesting climbing up to a bolt belay . Arranging protection difficult    
Route 6
15m HVS 5a
  Follow the obvious line to the belay chain. Bold    


Access-15 mins drive from Cortijo Sierra Castril

Follow the signed track into the Parque Natural Sierra de Castril. 1km after crossing the first bridge and just past coral boulders take a sharp left up the hill, keeping right. Park at the crag

Facilities- Further into the park is a campsite with a bar and serves tapas and meals.

Dick Gerrish FA Cracka Doodoo F 5+/6a

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