Rock Climbing Holidays in the Sierra de Castril Granada Spain

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Rock Climbing in the Sierra de Castril Spain

The Sierra de Castril and the surrounding area has great potential to develop into an excellent rock climbing and boulering venue. As well as local crags, the area is also within striking distance of well developed climbing areas around Andalucia, Granada and Murcia.

Click here for maps and topos for climbing around Castril

Click here for Bouldering info and topo for Collados Boulders

Click here for information about climbing in the Granada, Murcia regions
Click here for a map of where we are
Below are maps and topos of the area.

Climbing is possible nearly all year, even on the mountain crags. However in deep winter when the sun is not out it can be cold. In summer, although the heat around midday can be fierce, climbing on North facing crags is very pleasant as the humidity is usually very low. It's also possible to climb morning and evening even on South facing crags. Midday can be spent at one of the fantastic local pools or you could even do one of the classic local canyon trips .

Rock climbing in the Sierra de castril Spain
Bruce Jardine FA Scoopy Doo F 6a

Sharon Gerrish FA Porkybelly buttress F6a

Scroll down for more information about the venues and Topos

Crag Doo

Produced by www.sierracastril.com

Crag equipment sponsored by www.abdet.com

Crag Doo - A growing selection of routes in a beautiful setting. At the moment routes are mid grade but there is great potential for many more of a similar grade and harder.

The crag faces south west and picks up sun from mid morning to sunset.

A visit to this crag can be combined with a swim and some deep water soloing in Lake Bolera.

Bruce Jardine FA Scoopy Doo F6a

25	Descónchese directamente	8m	5+
	From foot of obvious small triangular butress, follow flake and crack a few m's then up right wall FA B JArdine, J Jardine, C Jardine
24	Ruby Boo	8m	5
	Up wall left of the big crack FA B Jardine, J Jardine
23	En el Balance	8m	6a
	Up steep wall. Balancy FA B Jardine, J Jardine
22	Principo	8m	4+
	up obvious wide crack FA B Jardine, J Jardine, C Jardine
21	Scoopy Doo ***	9m	6a
	Climb the scoop and grove direct. A technical lesson in bridging. FA D Gerrish,S Gerrish, T Phillips, B Jardine
20	Cracka Doodoo **	10m	6a+
	Follow the obvious crack to the top. Exit to belay, with or without style ! FA B Jardine, T Phillips, S gerrish, D Gerrish
19	Bloque Doo **	12m	6a
	Start from the shallow cave. Follow the awkward crack to the top. FA T Phillips
18	Buitre Doo ***	12m	6b
	Start at the thin crack left of the shallow cave. Climb this and pull left into the scoop. Follow the steep line to the belay. Superb. FA T Phillips, B Jardine
17	Project

16	Project

15	Dedo Doo ***	18m	6b
	Around the corner left is a wall with and overlap half way up. This route takes the line left of the overlap. FA B JArdine, T Phillips
14	Gruñir ***
	Classic chimney climbing. Easier for those brought up on gritstone classics. FA T Phillips, B Jardine	20m	5 or 6b

Access - 20 mins drive from Cortijo Sierra Castril

Take the road from Castril towards Pozo Alcon. After 8Km take the left turn to Campo Camara. 1 km further on on a left bend take the track to the left. Park near the chain across the track.

On foot follow the track to a junction, strike diagonally uphill to the crag.

Facilities - Check out the local bars in Castril and Pozo Alcon Confrides, self catering accommodation is available in Castril- see www.sierracastril.com

Tom Phillips on the FA of the superb Buitre Doo 6b

Pinnacle Sector

Produced by www.sierracastril.com

Crag equipment sponsored by www.abdet.com

Pinnacle Sector - 200 m further along the top of the crag is a col with a pinnacle a little higher up. Follow the path down past the pinnacle to the first route.

The crag faces south west and picks up sun from mid morning to sunset.

A visit to this crag can be combined with a swim and some deep water soloing in Lake Bolera.

Bruce Jardine FA Escudo F5+

topo climbing sierra de castril granada

13	Principiantes ruta	7m	3
	Climb the left edge of the leaning flake, step up on to the slab and up to a bolt belay FA B Jardine
12	Surco pequeño*	8m	4+
	Up the grove to the left to belay FA B Jardine, T Phillips,
11	Romper**	9m	5+
	Obvious crack on right of 10. Good value start FA B Jardine, T Phillips
10	Trauma de TP ***	11m	6a
	Start at the 2m flake. Climb this and up the wall and scoop on sneaky holds. FA B Jardine, Tristan Lucazeau
9	Project

8	Coincidencia**	14m	6a+
	Start at left end of undercut at a low bolt. Follow groove crack through overlap FA B Jardine, T Phillips
7	Escudo **	10m	5+
	Start off the block, follow the obvious line up the slab and crack. Long reach. (hard for the short) FA T Phillips, B Jardine
6	Via Whiting*	12m	5+
	Starts 2m right. Follow the obvious grove, crux at the small overlap. FA B Jardine, P Whiting
5	Copo mano derecha***	15m	5+
	Right hand flake line , follow the hollow sounding flake, hardish move left near top FA B Jardine, T Phillips
4	Copo mano izquierda***	15m	5+
	Left hand flake line . Strenous start, delicate middle. Great route. FA T Phillips, B Jardine
3	Abdet.com **	12m	6a+
	10 m right is an obvious narrow hanging slab. Climb the groove below it to an awkward and difficult exit up the crack. Clip the lower off to the left. FA T Phillips, B Jardine
2	Copo y Bolsillo ***	14m	5+
	2m Right. The obvious curving flake crack. Exit right at top of the flake via a Grande bolsillo. A super climb. FA B Jardine, T Phillips
1	Rajadura grande	8m	HS
	Obvious wide crack to the left of crag. Friends and rocks. FA B Jardine J Jardine

Bouldering at Las Almontares

Tom Phillips on FA Abdet.com. F6a

map crag lezar sierr de castril

Lezar Crag

Produced by www.sierracastril.com

Lezar Crag- Technical climbing on super rock.

South facing, hot in the summer .

Climbing here can be combined with a trip down Barranco del Buitre

Below the crag near the river is a group of boulders made of coral. They are full of sharp pockets and give a great variety of problems in the V0 to V2 grade.

Topo Lezar Crag Spain

1	Route 1 ***	20m	6a
	Super technical route up the slabby wall. Little pockets and hidden foot holds
2	Route 2 ***	20m	6b
	Follow the line of bolts to a taxing finish. Not steep, but technical. Very good
3	Route 3 **	20m	6c+
	Hard climbing up the blank wall. Doable
4	Route 4 ***	18m	5+/6a
	A super climb that follows an edge up to a great finish
5	Route 5 *	15m	HVS 5a
	Interesting climbing up to a bolt belay . Arranging protection difficult
6	Route 6	15m	HVS 5a
	Follow the obvious line to the belay chain. Bold

Access-15 mins drive from Cortijo Sierra Castril

Follow the signed track into the Parque Natural Sierra de Castril. 1km after crossing the first bridge and just past coral boulders take a sharp left up the hill, keeping right. Park at the crag

Facilities- Further into the park is a campsite with a bar and serves tapas and meals.

Dick Gerrish FA Cracka Doodoo F 5+/6a

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